By swapping fruit with friends Pierre-Henri Rougeot was given an opportunity to make Pinot and Chardo from vineyards that are not held by his family domaine. P-H, as he’s known to colleagues, has a talent for Pinot Noir and favors a high percentage of whole-cluster inclusion; though he calls himself a great lover of Volnay, he’s proven that he can coax similar fruit-forwardness and openness from a good vineyard in the usually stern village of Pommard, too. This wine had no SO2 added, which Pierre-Henri will only do to barrels or vintages that come out superlatively clean in cellar. Elegant and complex.