Chiara Penati and her husband Michele Conoscente founded this winery, Oltretorrente, in 2010; the winery’s name is a nod to their geographic location, “beyond the stream,” in reference to the Scrivia, a tributary of the Po River, but it could also be interpreted as “countercurrent.” This thoughtful winery works in the little-known appellation of the Colli Tortonesi, where there are only a few dozen wineries working; as such it’s a region of the Piemonte hiding a lot of exciting possibilities, including this totally delicious direct-press white. It’s a blend of Cortese, an herb-bringing variety, and Favorita, who offers yellow and white fruits and flowers. Medium-plus in weight, suggesting the blooms of spring and also fish dishes on a Sunday lunch outside.