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Matthias Warnung is one of our favorite northern Austrian producers, working in one of the three fancy appellations not far from Vienna, the Kamptal. He's a devoted, thoughtful young farmer, deeply interested in sustainability and making wines patiently, only ever using a touch of SO2, never fining or filtering. But Warnung's cellar full of massive old foudres from his grandfather is a special part of the story here, where wines of all colors receive years-long aging processes, deepening their complexity and harmony. 'WWW' is soft, expressive, fuzzy, with a clear structure of minerality and brisk acidity. The labels are jazzy, but don't be fooled: these are very serious natural wines from the Kamptal.
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