An extraordinary skin-contact wine from perhaps the most important white variety in the Venetian hills, Garganega. Most folks will know this variety as Soave, if they're ever heard of it at all, which has been rendered insipid industrial white wine for several decades. Giulia Masiero reclaims a particularly old plot of vines here and does a wild vinification in a marble tank - 'Lazaro' means long and slow - it's nearly three months of skin contact, rendering a volcanic, intensely mineral, layered and soft and tropical version of this variety. There's nothing else like it near Venice.