These are some of our favorite wines from Corbières, the moutainous, scrubby appellation in the southernmost part of the Languedoc. Ledogar's 'Compagnon' is 2/3 Syrah, with the latter third a co-fermented blend of Carignan and Grenache. Grown in clay-limestone, sandstone, and red clay at the edge of a pine forest; vineyards planted in 1948. This medium+ bodied wine shows notes of black plum, rich wet earth, olive tapenade, and minerals. Fine tannins, bright acidity, beautifully balanced—all in a region where making massive, overblown wine is all too easy.