Vigneron Renaud Guettier's unmistakable Pineau d'Aunis. It's a variety from the central Loire you won't see that often, and when you do, it's frequently rendered into light, graphite-inflected, pretty and peppery little reds. L'Enchateresse is much more than this, maybe our favorite bottling of this variety in the whole Loire: it's taken from a few different small parcels around the village of Dissay-sous-Courcillon, but these plots are vines of at least 50 to 115 years of age, adding concentration and depth to the expression of this variety. Foot-stomped, four weeks on skins, fermented in conical oak vats, then left to rest for one to two years on full lees in neutral barrels. This wine is magic, a great reason to switch your standard Pinot Noir purchase for something special.