La Gazzetta is the relatively new, young label from Trish Nelson, an Australian who has set up shop as a natural producer in the northern part of Lazio, around the very interesting terroir of the Lago di Bolsena. Volcanic soils and a rather rural setting make this area around the Bolsena lake a fascinating place to work, and after Trish worked for famed natural producers Le Coste for a spell, she was hooked and decided to put down roots. This entry-level vino rosso from Gazzetta is built off Sangiovese (but definitely local the Lazian biotype, not necessarily identical with the Tuscan stuff). It’s herbaceous, pleasingly fuzzy and with dark, pure fruit—also with proper grip. Oxygen serves it well; this is such a joyful bottle to watch unfold, well-matched with the deep nights of the winter solstice.