Gregory White, despite the very English name, is a very French fellow making lively and soulful red and white wines from very old vines in the Languedoc village of Aspiran. He acquired lovely plots of around five hectares back around 2013, and renders these classic southerly varieties into really fresh, ruddy versions of exactly why we drink natural wine from the south of France: primary, structured, bursting with pure and pleasant fruit, nothing overly polished or tucked-in. ‘Jamais pas soif’ in French means “never not thirsty,” and with wines like White’s around, neither are we.