Ruben Parera of Finca Parera is a revolutionary winemaker and farmer in the Penedès, Catalonia's most famous winemaking region, formerly known mostly for industrial Cava. This heartfelt bottling of one of the appellation's native red varieties, Sumoll (soo-MOYH), is herbaceous and delicate, light but smoky, like Cabernet Franc's pale, feral cousin. It's a lady dressed in red velvet and twigs. We're lucky to have a back vintage of this wine, too, as it only improves with time in bottle.