Fekete Béla is an iconic producer in the appellation of Somló, a small area in western Hungary dominated by a dormant volcano. The soils here are potent — fiery minerality is the hallmark of the region — and the native grape, Juhfark ("you-fark"), is a great transmitter of this place. Full-bodied, lush, with a sheep's meadow type thing going on. Special, powerful white wine from a regal appellation and an old-school producer.