Lori Haon of Domaine du Petit Oratoire is a confident young winemaker: only a couple of years into his project, having started in 2016 on 20 hectares — a big chunk of land for a first-timer — and the fresh and frank wines from this sometimes stodgy appellation are already a treat, with organic farming and biodynamic principles to boot. Sometimes folks will just order Côtes du Rhône because it's a recognizable French appellation for wine; they figure they'll get inexpensive, rich red wine that isn't awful. This isn't that: it's a cuvée that blends all the red grapes from the region, not just Syrah, and is more medium-weight and fresh, the kind of red wine you drink while you're "en attendant les copines," or waiting on your friends to arrive.