Claire Naudin is not Burgundy's most famous producer, but she's culty, and it's for great reason — sensitive, an immensely devoted grower, with a refusal to accept the winemaking dictums of her region and the viticulture taken for granted there. 'Orchis Mascula' is taken from three plots of 30 year-old vines and is always aged in barriques for 18 to 20 months. SO2 only added at bottling. These Pinot Noirs aren't always from the top top vineyards in Burgundy, but that's not why you drink Claire: you drink her for the forested, mystical, dark-purple-into-black fruit her wines provide, for the tension between softness and severity.