This is one of maverick Penedès winemaker Toni Carbò’s finest single-vineyard bottlings. ‘La Serra’ is from a plot of Xarel.lo planted by Toni in 2008; it’s a southeast-facing single hectare parcel with river stones scattered among its chalky clay soils, surrounded by olive trees. This wine is herbal, subtle, shimmery with minerals, not nearly as weighty and round as Xarel.lo in the Penedès can be - it’s a clear wine that represents Toni’s hand, always led by softness, detail, texture. La Salada makes among some of the most stirring natural wine in Catalunya, and this bottling from a vineyard that sits in front of a serrated ridge, where the wine gets its name, is a beautiful example. Bottle age serves these wines well - as a 2021 this one is finally coming out of its cocoon.