Cantina Margò is Carlo Tabarrini, a native of Perugia in Umbria and a maker of vibrant, direct, satisfying wines from his interior, scrubby landscape of Italy that’s lesser known for its red wines than it should be. Umbrian Sangiovese, such as this one, is a bit more fierce and rustic often than its Tuscan neighbors; you’ll sense a time and place outside of luxury goods and fancy resorts in this frank and delicious red. Some tannic structure but well-handled despite a touch of coarseness, pure vibrant dark red fruit. Listen to Dire Straits, lace up your boots, go hang out with your goat-herding friends, ditch the Tesla.