Angiolino Maule, of the winery La Biancara, is an early figure to get behind natural farming and winemaking in Italy, along with the likes of Giampiero Bea, Sasha Radikon, Stefano Bellotti, and others. Maule and two of his sons run the domaine now, founded in the 80's, of 15 hectares on Gambellara's famous volcanic hills. 'Pico' is the top white wine from this estate - it's selected from the very best hilltop vineyards that the Maules own; old vines, excellent parcels. This wine is a powerhouse and is a single-handed testimony to how serious Garganega is as a grape: bodied, honeyed, dry, with a bouquet of meadow flowers on the nose and a fiery mineral impression on the palate. It's built for the long haul, and this one is a baby even though it's already four years of age.