Entre Os Ríos, a small winery on the southwest coast of Galicia, create fresh, textural examples of this famed variety from the north of Spain. The winery is only a few km from the coast, with terraced vineyards of old vines on granitic soils; in spirit it is very similar to the nearby Rías Baixas DO, where Albariño dominates. 'Komokabras' is a local term for someone who’s kind of nutty; these cuvées with this name are dedication to more experimental winemaking techniques such as variations in vessel, etc. This wine is made in stainless steel, with half of the wine aged on lees and going through full malolactic fermentation, while the other half does neither. The result is an intriguing balance between sunny citrus notes and a rich, soft texture—lots more character than you'll often see in the sometimes-uniform white wines of the region.
