O2Y is a négociant joint project in the Jura from winemakers Yves Roy and Yoshi Kuroda, with tiny production of individual barrels and tanks, all from fruit purchased from natural grower friends around the village of Poligny. Their style is really luminous: gently-textured wines with freshness and lots of life and energy. This wine, ‘l’Embellie,’ is a wild iteration of the Jura’s native great white variety, Savagnin—it spent 25 months on lees in barrel before bottling. Powerful but pure, regal and also direct at the same time. Spectacular wine and probably not repeatable, especially given the Jura’s recent years of suffering at the hands of hail and frost, which have been devastating local yields. A bottle worth meditating on.