Rossese is a very special grape that hails from the simultaneously coastal, mountainous, forested region of Liguria; it’s estimated that there are only 80 hectares or so of the variety cultivated across the entire region. It’s light in color but packs a wallop in terms of roundness and flavor on the palate: blood, iron, white florals, sardines, toasted red apples, cherries… It’s really fascinating. Antonio Perrino of Testalonga is one the variety’s finest practitioners; moreover, he has been making wine for around 60 vintages (!), so he truly has found his own path in terms of working with this variety. Elegant but also kind of feral, deep but also light on its feet — this is one of Italy’s most hard-to-imitate Mediterranean reds. Do not miss, as Testalonga only cultivates two hectares of vines: tiny production is an understatement.
