The Saint-Romain blanc made by Reynaud Boyer is something of the flagship white wine at his tiny 3-hectare Burgundian domaine. It’s a village that is technically a little side valley off the main stretch of famous Chardonnay towns, and as such goes for a slightly more gentle price than its fancier big siblings like Meursault and Chassagne, but Boyer’s no-sulfur-added, natural iteration of this village is worthy of serious attention. Light but structured, persistent and clear—the freshness of morning and the forest, which you won’t often find in Burgundy’s majority of over-processed and over-handled, more common Chardonnays.