The Molettieri family has been winegrowing on the same property in the province of Irpinia since 1900 — for several generations, they've handed down an old style of vine training local to Campania called 'tennecchia,' one that the Celts originally brought to southern Italy. Now two winemakers, the De Lisio brothers, are making the first wines from this family's four hectares of old vines, which are undamaged by phylloxera in the early years of the century. 'Don Giovanni' is a fresh, natural version of Aglianico, fermented and aged in stainless steel, rested in neutral botti, and bottled without filtration or sulfur. Cherries, wild red fruit, spices, warmth - not the monster Aglianico of the late '90s and early aughts.