Mario Macciocca makes vibrant natural wines in Piglio, one of the only two DOCs devoted to Lazio’s great red grape of Cesanese. He tends only 4 hectares and makes all of his wines with spontaneous ferments in concrete; the rocky, iron-rich soils of the area make for unique flavors and expressions. This is our favorite wine of his, ‘Monocromo #3,” his rosato, which borders somewhere between copper and pink and acts something like a deeply fresh macerated white wine. Notes of strawberry, herbs, rhubarb, and soil, with a round and joyful palate and no lack of tension. One of the more complex and interesting rosatos we’ve tasted in Italy of late!