Léo Dirringer has taken the helm at the domaine in tiny Alsatian village Dambach-la-Ville (near Colmar), where his family has been making wine for over four generations. Convicted by organic farming and influenced by such producers as Marie-Thérèse Chappaz and Ganevat, Dirringer’s non-traditional methods still prompt some very clean, clear, and terroir-driven wines, despite his blending of different varieties and vintages for some bottlings. This one, called ‘Granitik,’ is a mix of Auxerrois and Pinot Gris that feels energetic, beautifully fruity, and in no way fleshy or overly robust, with a clear imprint of minerality that its name would imply. No sulfur added and super stable and pure.