The winemaker of La Perdida, Nacho Gonzalez, has probably some of the most progressive views on natural winemaking in all of Galicia (a rather industrial region best known for producing oceans of anonymous-tasting Albariño). As far as we know, Nacho is a winemaker unlike any other in this region of the world. A biologist by training, he turned to winemaking when his grandmother passed down to him his first vineyard. Nacho brought it back to life from total neglect, through good farming practices and a desire to save the vines rather than rip them up. The vineyard now produces some of the most fascinating red wines in all of Spain, with Garnacha Tintorera, no less, a variety not typically lauded by anyone in the country or elsewhere. It was his grandmother who told him the old vines were magnificent and should be cared for, and it was here in this moment that La Perdida was born. This rare bottling, called 'O Poulo,' is dark and mysterious, with notes of thyme, eucalyptus, and damson plum, aged in wood for long enough to make it a serious bottle, worthy of air and attention upon opening.