Flinty, earthen, ethereal: the sultry and moving dark side of Burgundy, even in a wine as seemingly simple as "just" a Bourgogne rouge. Purple and black fruit here, with a tension on the palate and a touch of rusticity. This is red wine for the fireplace, for roast meat, and not because it's big and bold, but rather because it exemplifies what great wine is supposed to be about: intensity without weight. Claire Naudin is a master of Pinot Noir, and her entry-level wines are still blessedly affordable (for now). Don't miss.