Roussanne is an underloved variety; planted in the southerly region of the Rhône, it can be burly and unwieldy. Sometimes called ‘Bergeron’ farther north in the Savoie, where this wine is made, it has quite a different character: robust, sunny, sometimes even opulent, but with a different mineral spine than on the granite in the south. Céline Jacquet’s version is lovely, with some weight notable still, but a clear freshness and presence of lighter fruit, like white pear, yellow melon, a touch of spiced apple. Pretty acidity here, too. A mountain wine with lots of interest; will pair well with whole fish in the oven, a milder yellow curry, or porchetta.