We have certain categories or styles of wine here at Folkways about which we feel a special type of way. Sometimes particular grapes or entire categories of wine get a bad rap! In this missive, we want to draw your perhaps-skeptical eyes to the beauties of sparkling rosé, which we feel fairly confident doesn’t get drunk because it’s either too pretty-looking, and therefore not serious; or it’s too light, and therefore not for dinner; or it’s too sweet, and therefore we just don’t like it. 

Rosé in general is deeply misunderstood: the majority of these light or dark pink wines, around the world, are produced with red grape varieties. These grapes are simply pushed on a bit more lightly in the winemaking press in order to extract less color, bitterness, and structure from the grape skins. This process results in, essentially, just a lighter-colored or paler red wine. Unfortunately, the damages of California “white Zinfandel” have been lasting. Inherently, there’s no reason a lightly-pressed red wine should be sweet, uninteresting, or for aperitivo. In fact, if a rosé is really well-made, it should be a shadow or an echo of the ‘full’ red wine: echoes, in harmony. Think of an alto singing the piece, along with the tenor or the bass part—the song is the same, it’s just in a different register. 

Champagne in the refining racks, Underwood & Underwood, 1907

Likewise, sparkling wine is sometimes written off as just kind of cute, fun at the beginning of a meal, or for a celebratory toast. (We have marketing campaigns from the Champagne region as far back as 100 years ago to thank for this.) Bubbles, no matter how they are obtained in the winemaking process, are never really the point of the wine—they are an accent, something to shift the still wine into a physically more active iteration. In the case of the Champagne or “traditional” method sparkling, these are more firm, present bubbles that last the whole way through a bottle being open. In the case of a pét-nat, the bubbles are often super soft and not meant to last forever. Either way, the carbon dioxide trapped in the wine to give us that effervescence is meant to be pleasurable, but it shouldn’t mask the quality of the base wine. 

Here we give you some favorite selections that combine both these somewhat unloved or at least misunderstood practices in winemaking. Sparkling rosé! It’s just red wine, pressed lightly for a paler color, then fermented such that bubbles are trapped in the bottle. If you’re a red wine OR a white wine drinker, each of these bottles should be of interest and excitement.

Untitled (Red), Mark Rothko, 1956

WINES

Papras 'Melanthia Ancestral' Pét-Nat Rosé 2022 - $29

For Stergio Papras, the organic movement isn’t a trend he is hopping on but rather one he was part of starting. He finally was able to certify his vineyards in 1990 when it became an option in Greece and has since made quite a name for himself with his wines based on the Black Muscat of Tyrnavos. The vineyards are unlike any other, situated in the plains below Mount Olympus. ‘Melanthia,’ meaning “black flower,” is fermented in a closed tank then finishes in the bottle, creating a crisp, floral experience around this rare variety.

Strohmeier Sekt Rosé NV - $53

Perhaps the world's most obscure sparkling rosé, but this doesn't mean you shouldn't be over the moon for it. Franz Strohmeier is an uncompromising natural winemaker in the Steiermark, a land of steep green hills, highly mineral soils, and a few unheard-of grape varieties, including this one, Blauerwildbacher. This traditional method sparkler is aged three years in bottle, hand-riddled, and made with zero dosage. Creamy, rosy, velvety, with Wildbacher's signature bitter-root, forest floor finish. A stunner.

Divella Gussago Metodo Classico Rosé ‘Clo Clo’ NV - $79

Alessandra Divella is a young winemaker focusing on ‘metodo classico’ bubbles in Lombardia—the Italian name for sparkling wines identically to Champagne, i.e. with a primary fermentation in one big vessel, then a secondary fermentation happening inside of bottle to create bubbles. (This is much more complicated than Prosecco, for example). In Lombardy, this style of sparkling is famous in the appellation of Franciacorta, but few have a rosé style like Divella's: tawny, savory, and herbal, with a distinctive oxidative character and a powerful saline line through the palate. These sparkling wines aren't for those looking for freshness and purity; instead they register power, drive, and breadth. Not rosé for poolside but rather something to put in a Burgundy glass. If you like oxidative styles of grower Champagne, this is a must-try.

Villa Picta Metodo Classico Rosé ‘Sognare Sognare!’ 2020 - $39

Paolo Pasini of Villa Picta makes only one ‘metodo classico’ sparkling wine; everything else at his tiny Mantovano domaine is made in the rifermentato style. We're lucky Paolo's chosen to use of the Champagne method for one of his wines, as he turns out to be as excellent at this style as he is at the more traditional sparkling from the region. 'Sognare' is 100% Lambrusco di Sorbara, and intensely expressive and acid-driven variety that's destined to make some of Italy's greatest sparkling wines. Think notes of crystallized strawberry, springtime meadows, and an electric charge of acidity on the palate. This wine also ages beautifully: it's our good fortune to have the 2020, as there's only a tiny bit produced. Pair with the 1980 Italian prog rock song 'Suonare Suonare' by PFM that inspired the label, and open this only with loved ones.

FEATURED WINES:

Papras 'Melanthia Ancestral' Pét-Nat Rosé 2022

Strohmeier Sekt Rosé NV

Divella Gussago Metodo Classico Rosé ‘Clo Clo’ NV

Villa Picta Metodo Classico Rosé ‘Sognare Sognare!’ 2020

SHOP THE COLLECTION: Rosé Sparkling