Il Colle di Caterina Carli is one of the rare producers in Brunello that aren't flashy, overwrought, or looking to get crazy famous. She farms her five hectares organically, uses only large used botti for ferment and aging, eschewing the small barriques that have made many modern examples of the wines totally oaky, rich, and super-polished. This is Sangiovese aged in the rigorous way that Brunello must be - four years in wood before release, plus one year in bottle for good measure - and it strikes a nice balance between ripe fruit and transparency of place. A nice one for traditionalists and Big Red Wine People alike.