Fabio Gea is the wildest thing in the village of Barbaresco. His wines are uncompromising; his conversation is as unpredictable and freewheeling. 18 different cuvées are made at Gea's place from a mere two hectares; fermentations are fully spontaneous and the wines, even though they do have a touch of SO2 added, feel deeply "selvatico" and bear no resemblance to polished, stately, straightfoward Langhe red wines or Barbaresco. This Barbaresco's full title is "Nòtu Seguiva la Gocce d'Acqua," which is Piemontese dialect for "Grandpa followed the drop of water," and it's one of the two true DOCG Barbaresco that Gea produces. But don't buy these wines for your business friends — there are more elegant versions of this place for that. Buy them for your jazz musician and knitting enthusiast and anthropologist friends.
