Almost no one in France, and indeed the whole wine world, makes deadly serious red sparkling wine - except for where it’s both cherished and historical, in the Po River valley in northern Italy, home to the varied family of Lambrusco grapes. This traditional method sparkler from Cyrille Sevin defies French logic and links itself to that Italian tradition instead: it’s a 100 percent red wine constructed mostly of Gamay and Cabernet Sauvignon, purpley-opaque in the glass, with blackberry, black cherry, and fig notes, all grounded by a zesty dry finish and a fine bubble. It’s aged for 24 months on the lees before disgorgement, making it a serious entry, and we know of nothing else like it from a natural winemaker in the Loire. Gorgeous stuff for spring and fall, the shoulder seasons where light meals or comfort dishes alike will have something interesting to say with this beauty!
