Cyrille Sevin is one of the few natural winemakers in the special Loire Valley appellation of Cour-Cheverny—and hard-to-find. The appellation is already super interesting, but what’s more, Sevin has a special excellence at serious sparkling wine: most people think of pét-nat in the Loire, but this is a Champagne-method or “méthode traditionelle” wine, far more complex to produce. Aged for around seven years on the lees in bottle before disgorgement (this is mega long!), this true Crémant is a hallmark of the seriousness of this neat part of Touraine, blending white and red varieties into this bone-dry, deeply complex sparkling white wine.