Marc Fuyà says of the apple trees that they're "much more clever than humans," knowing that one year's impressive production means a tree will likely "go on holidays" the following year and produce no fruit, or at least far less. We're lucky Marc has gotten to know some clever trees around the foothills of the Pyrenees in Catalonia, from which he renders wines that are expressive, precise, and refined. 'Lava' is a very special blend of native Catalan varieties Eugènia, Camosa, Cor Glaçat, Verda donsella, Ull de Nespre, del Ciri, Aiguardent, Marge + wild crabapples. Champagne-like, fascinating stuff, it'll change your mind about "sidra" altogether.