Panos Sarris is a young sommelier-winemaker who took over his family’s old two hectares of vineyards at an altitude of 800m on poor limestone gravel. Sarris' goal is making transparent the essence of his home island, Kefalonia; to that end, his wines are always wild fermented, unfiltered, and unfined. Panos uses an old Austrian two-ton füder barrel for part of fermentation and aging—this is one of the liveliest, most maritime wines we've tasted, ripping and brisk even with some five years of age. Do not miss.