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Franco Noussan is an old-school garagiste working in the high, high mountain area of the Valle d'Aosta, on a tiny property of 1.5 hectares of old vines at least 70 years of age, dedicated entirely to the region's fascinating mountain varieties you won't see anywhere else in Italy, or neighboring France and Switzerland. This Fumin is one of the most interesting, beguiling varieties of the region, and Noussan's version is gorgeous: black fruit, smoke, a sense of the sandy soils and altitude that mark the vineyard, incense, twigs, leather, plum and currant. It's not a massive wine, but like all Alpine reds, isn't shy either. An amazing red for holiday feasts in winter.
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