Nathan Kendall's Finger Lakes Pinot Noir is a beautiful iteration of what can be done by upstate wineries on glacial terrain, reflecting off of long, deep lakes. Pinot can really be a challenge in that area: it's humid and moist, leaving this very delicate grape variety vulnerable to mildew and rot. We're lucky to have Kendall's version, as a result: dusky, earthy, with a cherry-cola tinge, lightness of weight, no tannin. It's just a very pretty, accomplished New York state red wine.