We love Matthias Warnung's wines. These are Matthias' 35-40 year old vines of Grüner, fermented whole cluster in old 300 and 500 liter barrels, then rested for two years in that neutral wood before bottling. In other words, Warnung makes white wine in Austria the way it used to be, before it all got turned into bulk liters of GV that taste like unidentifiable white wine. Textural, elegant, glossy—we can't say enough about how lovely this work is. Let this bottle get some air, it unfurls with oxygen.