This dry manzanilla sherry is made at a historical bodega, ‘M. Antonio de la Riva,’ founded in the 1700s in Jerez, but recently rehabilitated and given new life by exciting young winemakers Ramiro Ibañez and Willy Pérez. They’re working to breathe new life into the fortified and oxidative winemaking styles in this old region so defined by salt, chalk, and sea. This particular bottling is made from the Palomino variety, as most dry sherries are, sourced mostly from the Casilla Verde family estate situated just 7km from the sea. Grapes are hand-harvested in mid-September, fermented in steel on the lees and then biologically aged under flor for an average of 3.5 years, in a traditional 1/12 barrel solar system. A once-annual saca, or bottling, typically yields about 1500 bottles with a natural alcohol level of 15%. Notes of pancakes, white flowers, chestnut honey, and—did we mention?—the sea, the sea, the sea. Not heavy-bodied but not thin either; would be amazing with cheese plates, crackers, salads, even baked or grilled seafood dishes.
