Not enough people know that there's a natural winemaking boom happening in the Veneto. Venice and the many small cities nearby, throughout the region and reaching into southern Lombardia and Emilia-Romagna - are offering loads of new wineries and young talent, showing us healthy and expressive versions of varieties and terroirs that have been in conventional wine mire for some time. This 100% Corvina, usually a lead variety in Valpolicella, has loads of dried ripe fruit, slate-y minerality, and quite a light body - an unusually crunchy and fresh iteration of a variety that can be enormous, depending on how it's treated.