Young winemaker Carlo de Liberato, along with his brother, has undertaken to restore some very special old vineyards of Garganega on a prime hilltop in the once-famous, now maybe infamous, Venetian appellation of Soave. Here, the wines have largely turned industrial and insipid since the '90s, but young people like Carlo are taking special old parcels of vineyards and helping to turn them back around and into something special. This Garganega embodies everything there is to love about this volcanic appellation in northern italy: body, texture, intense minerality, herbaceousness, length on the palate. This is no green, technical Pinot Grigio! Pair with white-sauced pastas or seared richer fish.