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The trouble with Burgundy is that a great deal of it is way overpriced—in addition to not being farmed well. Sometimes it's a stab in the dark on whether your $70-100 is going to get you something really beautiful, or something mediocre. Julien Guillot's wines are not mediocre: they channel the old soul of the region, when farming was the central part of the culture. This Chardonnay is not an oaky, round, chemical mess: it's lightly textural, with tension, acidity, and freshness. It's a better Mâcon than almost anyone else in the region produces.
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