Josef Totter is a wild dude and a rock-solid winemaker. Living and working on his family’s tiny polycultural farm in the region in southern Austria called the Steiermark, he fashions bright, acid-driven, and intelligent and fun wines from just 1.5 hectares of PiWi varieties, planted on a mix of volcanic and ocean soils. (PiWis are like hybrid grapes, only with way less “hybrid” genetics, around 5-10%, and way more genetics from “normal” wine grapes, the family called vitis vinifera). This pét-nat is Totter’s signature wine: foamy, electric with acidity, fresh flowers and green fruits, zap zap zap. Totti, as his friends affectionately call him, also makes his own prosciutto and cheese, rebuilds old motorcycles, and knows how to party.