‘Il Gusto di Amalfi’ is a tiny company that takes organically-grown lemons from the hillsides of the Amalfi Coast (near Tramonti), peels them by hand with potato-peelers in small batches, and macerates them in pure grain alcohol in stainless steel vessels like very small wine tanks. (Industrial limoncello is sometimes bitter, a sign that the pith of the fruit has been accidentally included with the zest; hand-peeling avoids this.) The variety of lemon is ‘Sfusato Amalfitano’, and the groves are owned and farmed by distiller Mario Anastasio’s friends and family. This limoncello is pure expression of an excellent raw material, and that’s it. Drink cold but not iced as an after-dinner drink; the liqueur may need to be shaken occasionally to mix in the lemon oils that rise to the top.