California Riesling is a challenging subject: many wineries over the decades have planted this variety all up and down the state, but the grape is historically understood as cold-climate, which California is decidedly not. We can list our favorite versions of the rendition of this variety from CA on one hand - but Cody Rasmussen of Desire Lines has recently presented us with a new, deeply impressive version. From the wooded and obscure site of .1ha (1/4 acre) in Mendocino county called Cole Ranch, this bottling is dense with texture but deeply mineral, woodsy, with chamomile and light notes of spice. It’s a striking version (yes, it’s dry) - another one that clearly argues that Riesling really does belong in CA.