Lorenza Ludovico cultivates a very tiny two hectares of rugged, intense vineyards in the rocky mountain area of L'Aquila in Abruzzo. It's a truly rural place, with mountain peaks wrapped in fog and vines trained high enough so wild boars can't get to the fruit. Her beautiful Cerasuolo, perhaps the most traditional wine of Abruzzo, matches both the climate and Ludovico's intelligence: rosy, with a glossy, candied red fruit nose that gives way to rust-colored earth on the palate, along with cherry lozenge. Rustic and lovely. Don't call it a rosé — it's much more than the style usually suggests.