This joyful blend of all the white wine varieties with which the Brand brothers work is hazy but eminently fresh, with a pithy touch, a little twang of herbs in the background. A wonderful expression of natural wine in Germany: not freaky or screechy, just pleasurable—a bottle that reminds us of the ease and freshness of early summer. Pair with savory pastries or sautéed greens or fried chicken; you can't go wrong here.