Abandon everything you think you know about Chardonnay (big, oaky) and everything you think you know about German white wine (Riesling, sweet). None of this proves true in the hands of the Brand brothers, who make this lightning-rod-in-a-bottle Chardonnay. Lean, mean, and electric—hence the Tom Wolfe joke cuvée name. If you haven't used mouthwash yet today or haven't had your coffee and need a cold one to wake yourself up, this Pfalz live wire is just the glass you need.