In the seaside Galician village of Castrelo lives Alberto Nanclares, perhaps one of the best-respected producers of artisanal Albariño working today. This is a red wine highlighting some of Galicia’s terrific red varieties, including the herbal, mid-weight and thin-skinned Mencia, here blended with Caiño Tinto, another high-quality local variety from Spain’s Celtic northwestern corner. This elegant red has notes of black soil, red plums, rosemary and dried sage; it’s not heavy, but rather transparent and persistent, a dream for winter dishes composed with cream, mushrooms, sunchokes, or carrots.