This is Ruben Parera's stirring Xarel.lo pét-nat, or methode ancestrale. It is a rebuke to those who think that pét-nat isn't serious sparkling, or that only traditional/Champagne method sparkling wine can be elegant or complex. Moreover, this wine has been undisgorged for five years inside of bottle at this point: we are seeing a rare proof of the dignity of age for bubbly wines that aren't filtered, sulfured, or otherwise messed-with. Smells like seafoam, oyster shell, lemon rind, and fresh daytime air. If you like salty iterations of French Chardonnay, and you like them foamy and with bubbles, you'll love this. Bravo Ruben!