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Is Pierre Michelland, of Domaine de la Réaltière, Provence's greatest working natural vigneron? Maybe, quite possibly. Do we want the rest of the world or even the rest of France to know that? No, lest everyone abandon their Whispering Angel and Château Miraval and turn to this totally electric, kiwi-and-strawberry, licking Pixie Sticks rosé. It's routinely one of our favorites year in and year out, fresh as can be, but with acidity buzzing through it like a battery. A really pretty, cherry-blossom battery. We don't know, just do yourself a favor and drink this immediately, but don't tell anyone else.
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